How is it like being in a field of work where there are not that many black designers?
I see my blackness as a strength because it gives me a unique perspective. I’m proud of it, and I make sure that our influence and the imagery of our diaspora are acknowledged and reflected in the work that I present. On day-to-day when you’re one of the only, it’s hard to talk about anything concerning race without people instantly shutting down or getting defensive. It can feel isolating. We don’t have the privilege to hear our colleagues say something racist or throw out a random microaggression and keep it moving like nothing ever happened. Part of the struggle is that we can beat ourselves up for feeling like we didn’t say enough, and we can also beat ourselves up for feeling like we said too much. We have to deal with external factors that our colleagues don’t have to, but we also have to deal with an internal struggle as well, coming to work and putting on our game faces. However, we can be hurting, mad, or exhausted inside. I hope that now that there is a greater spotlight on the issues within the fashion industry that companies will genuinely listen, put in the work to do better, and be authentic in their efforts.
Did you have a mentor?
Not in the traditional sense. It has to be an organic relationship with someone more experienced and someone who truly has my best interest in mind. Although this is something I’ve yearned for, I don’t feel that I’ve found that within this industry yet. At this point in my career, I think that some of my peers are my mentors and vice versa. Footwear design is a line of work where you are continually learning. Each pattern and treatment you produce is a chance to learn something new, what works, what doesn’t work, what can be improved. Also, every company is different, so some of us have been brought on to the business aspect of things more than others; in that case, we all have a differing collection of skills and knowledge that we can gain from one another.
What's your background, and how did you get into design?
I started my journey into footwear design later on in my career. At the time, I was stuck in a job where I didn't feel like I had a future, so I took the time to ask myself what I love. One thing was dance, but I knew I was past my prime to become a professional dancer, and the other was shoes. So I tried sketching out some ideas in my apartment and really enjoyed it, but I knew I would need some form of training. It inspired me to take courses at FIT at night and really hone my skills. It was a fulfilling challenge, but it also got me through the depression of being in a dead-end job until I felt ready enough to put myself out there and start applying to accessories design positions. I was actually accepted into the full-time Accessories Design program at FIT at the same exact time that I got my first job offer in footwear design. I spoke with my professors to get an idea of what would be the best course of action, and it was clear to take the opportunity and continue my learning on the job. I'm thankful that someone saw my potential early on and took a chance on me even though my route into the design was unconventional.
What's the process of making shoes?
The first step is to find inspiration through research. Then typically, I thumbnail quick sketch concepts based on that inspiration. Next, I determine what thumbnails make for a cohesive line and convert those into full-size sketches. Next, I communicate instructions to the development team via technical specifications. After that, I work with a technician to execute the designs and check for fit through multiple rounds of corrections. Concurrently I'm doing materials research and ordering materials for final samples. Towards the end of the process, I approve the last samples and conduct factory visits to see how samples are progressing.
What challenges do you face in your professional career?
I think as a black woman in any industry, but especially fashion, it’s hard to be taken seriously. I believe in most cases, our work gains more respect than the actual person does. We don’t always receive the same amount of resources or investment in our career development. It’s harder for us to get a fair shot at leadership positions. When those don’t come to fruition, we lose on opportunities for growth and remain at helper status. Unfortunately, in any industry, we can hit the ceiling no matter the quality of our work. One of the most telling moments was when one of my supervisors told me that she never had to ask for anything, and that makes all the difference. We have to continually ask because if we don’t, we’ll be left at the status quo.
What advice would you give to a young person trying to get into the footwear industry?
Travel internationally as much as possible. Get outside of your comfort zone and immerse yourself in other cultures to gain a broader perspective. Also, know that you are your best advocate. Don’t expect things to come quickly, but know your worth. I spent a lot of time asking and then waiting for something. Don’t wait, realize that in some situations you will have to create your own yes.
What's sustainability mean to you as a designer?
I think it's how we move with the earth rather than against it. I feel that I have a responsibility to my offspring to find ways to protect our environment so that they can live with some form of normalcy. I don't believe that there is one perfect formula for a designer to achieve sustainability, it's up to the individual the strategies that you want to take to lessen the impact our industry has on the environment. I see many startups execute different methods of sustainable practices, and I think that's great. If you work within a larger company, you have to find ways to speak out even if it goes against what the majority think.
What would like to contribute to black the community as creative?
I want to create a safe space for black professionals to flourish. To me, it's not enough to be a black creative. I think we have a responsibility to treat each other with kindness and respect. We all need a healthy support system and our dignity intact to reach our full potential. I refuse to run or be a part of any modern-day plantations.
What does it mean to be black creative in America right now?
I think that this moment is a fascinating and empowering time. We are finding ways to cope and embolden ourselves in the wake of violence against our people. We are linking arms literally and figuratively to fight systemic racism in our industries by creating a tighter community that's supporting and promoting each other's work. It's going to take time to dismantle something so ingrained in our industry and society as a whole. But I think we are taking a beautiful step in the right direction, and we and our real allies will not allow this to be temporary.
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